"dancer in the dark", VI, A3+, 5.10, Denbor Brakk (west face),
Karakoram, Pakistan 2001, (550 meters) AAJ 76
"absolute end", VI, A4, 5.11, Mt. Thor (west face), Baffin Island,
Canada 2002, (1350 meters) AAJ 77, Alpinist 1
"last cry of the butterfly", VI, A4, 5.10+, 75 degrees ice/snow,
Citadel (east face), Kichatna Spires, Alaska, USA 2003,
(1150 meters) AAJ 78, R&I 128, Vertical 42, Alpinist 4
"self right to suicide", VI, A4, 5.10, 55 degrees ice/snow,
South Tower del Paine (east face), Patagonia, Chile 2004,
(1150 meters) AAJ 78, Alpinist 7, R&I 137
other ascents:
grand slam of sheep, looking glass, north carolina (A4, 3rd ascent, 2003 winter)
broken shards of glass, looking glass, north carolina (A4, 2nd ascent, 2004 winter)
latitudes, streaked wall, zion, utah (A4+, 6th ascent, 2005 winter)
pretty boring, isn't it?
future projects:
"declaration of insanity" somewhere in Himalaya
(this of course besides drinking and writing some more
crap)
greenland 2005 -- water hard-core sports and of course polar bear hunting!
preferred style:
top heavy (beer, porn mags, good chow, girl from time
to time, etc...)
damn slow (i do not spend $$$ for expedition to blast a
mile of rock under an hour, that stupid i am not)
environmentally conscious?! you guys must be kidding,
with tons of shit dumped all over the world into the
oceans, trees cut by square miles, new nuclear power
plants budding here and there.
no i am not gonna hesitate to dump my shit into
crevasse, or burn and bury my trash in a basecamp.
no fucking way.
honors:
Poland: National Climbing Association Medal 2003
France: nomination for Piolet d'Or 2003 (Golden Axe Award)
USA: Mugs Stump Award 2004
as a person:
capacity for a sustained driving (people crazy)
full time job (so i won't kill myself too fast)
amazing lack of brains (considering)
and a desert for the deaf
(since the condition precludes any civil way, let me drive it straight home)
want to climb safe? get yourself pack of condoms and change your hobby
do not like the weather? maybe you should head back to your local gym. you know it does not rain there
guided climbing? if you need that, look for help in some of these mutual support groups. i would start off with something like: "anonymous wipe-my-lazy-ass-for-me group"
